TasTrekker

Category: Trail Running

  • Cradle Prep on the Capes

    The Blade and Tasman Island
    Tasman Island from The Blade

    In a couple of days I will be lining up for my third Cradle Mountain Run. On the first Saturday in February each year, 60 privileged individuals gather, pre dawn, at Waldheim Chalet (just up the hill from Ronny Creek) and run, amble, skip and trip their way to Cynthia Bay, some 78 kilometres south along the famous Overland Track. This run has an old-school feel with some organisers involved in its entire 45-year history. Places sell out within minutes of entries opening in October each year.

    Denmans Cove Lagoon
    Lagoon at Denmans Cove

    31st of December was the cut-off for refunds for anyone not sure about their fitness to compete but withdrawals are welcome right up to the event. WIth no aid stations and no road access for the entire length it is not the place for uncertainty. Ideally I should have had my final test run earlier but, sometimes, life happens and I wouldn’t have it any other way! So… On the 2nd of January I set out to give my body it’s last major workout before committing to the start line at Cradle.

    Arthurs Peak, Mount Brown and Cape Raoul
    Arthurs Peak, Mount Brown and Cape Raoul

    Three Caps is an ideal testing ground. Sneaking in on the old Denmans Cove Track, popping out to Capes Pillar and Hauy and finishing at Fortescue Bay totals 52km with just under 2,000m ascent. This more closely resembles the Cradle run compared with the vert-heavy jaunts on our usual backyard kunanyi / Mount Wellington trails.

    Cape Pillar from Tornado Ridge
    Cape Pillar from Tornado Ridge

    Back in September, Kylie had a ripper run on the Capes setting a household benchmark of 7 hours 36 minutes. For the first half of my run I was feeling good. The undulations to Surveyors Cabin went by swiftly and it felt great nipping over Arthurs Peak, scooting around Mt Crescent, wandering over the Ellerwey Valley, ducking in to the new lookouts at Tornado Ridge and on to my second water refill at Munro Cabin.

    The Blade and Tasman Island
    Tasman Island from The Blade
    The Chasm
    The Chasm

    At the Blade, on Cape Pillar, I was within minutes of Kylie’s time and, as I turned around at the mighty Chasm, I wondered if I might be able to maintain the pace. It wasn’t to be. Kylie is an amazingly consistent runner. I, on the other hand, start strong – and fade! By the time I refilled at Munro (again) and at Retakunna, Kylie’s splits were skipping off into the far distance ahead of me.

    The Blade
    The Blade from The Chasm at Cape Pillar

    On the steady Mount Fortescue climb I phoned Kylie for moral support so I could listen to her modestly say what a freakishly good day she had in September while I truly enjoyed the lush cloud forest slowly plod by.

    Mount Fortescue
    Dicksonia Antarctica forest on Mount Fortescue

    The forested descent past Pillars of the South and on to the Hauy junction was actually delightful. Even the thousands of stairs en route to and from the Cape were bearable as I worked my way through a throng of day-walkers and last-day Three Capes Experience side-trippers. The view down to the Totem Pole never ceases to amaze!

    Cape Pillar and Munro Bight
    Looking south along Munro Bight to a distant Cape Pillar

    At Fortescue Bay I was happy to have recorded a slightly better time than my other effort some seven years ago. As my Strava comment says, it was also a chance to appreciate Kylie’s wonderful endurance and consistency with her time a solid 80 minutes quicker than mine.

    Totem Pole, Candlestick and Lanterns at Cape Hauy
    Totem Pole, Candlestick and Lanterns viewed from Cape Hauy

    …and the verdict on the Cradle Run? I’ll be lining up on 7th Feb! If my various niggles can survive 50km of bone-jarring stone steps and compacted gravel on the Capes I reckon they’ll cope with a jaunt down the OLT.

  • Overland Snow from Go to Whoa

    Overland Track in Snow

    Last week I was working at Lake St Clair when Kylie came to visit. In typical Kylie fashion she arrived via an Overland Track trail run on what may turn out to be the best snow day of the winter.

    Snow at sunrise
    Sun rises over Cradle Plateau

    Good snow had fallen overnight Friday and intermittent flurries continued through Saturday. By Sunday morning, when Kylie left Waldheim, snow had settled as low as 500 metres above sea level over much of Tasmania during the last 36 hours.

    Snow covered mountain and forest with blue sky
    Barn Bluff from above Fury Gorge

    Kylie had picked her weather window perfectly. The high pressure system whose leading edge helped drive the icy, southerly blast was now centring itself over Tasmania ushering in clear skies for much of the day.

    Snow and distant mountain
    Barn Bluff from Windermere Plains

    Snow on the alpine plateau and cirques around Cradle, through Waterfall Valley and over the windswept Windermere Plains and Pine Forest Moor was no surprise. However, a fluffy, white blanket even on the track’s low point at Frog Flats gave an indication this could be a rare opportunity to enjoy snow all the way – from go to whoa.

    At Pelion Gap cloud started rolling in but stayed dutifully above the mountaintops. A snowy carpet through the enchanting forests between Kia Ora and Windy Ridge was a treat before the clouds parted for a late afternoon piece de resistance – sunset silhouetting Geryon, Kylie’s favourite mountain.

    Mountain at sunset
    Mount Geryon silhouetted at sunset

    After sunset Kylie donned almost every layer of warm gear to be cosy and snug for the last couple of hours to Narcissus. Footprints from some northbound Overland Trackers made for easier passage on this final leg especially as snow had been knocked off the overhanging branches – a luxury not afforded on the whole section from Kia Ora to Windy Ridge.

    …and how did Kylie get back to Cradle to retrieve the car?!?

    A mere 57 hours after finishing, Kylie was trotting back northwards from Narcissus. Much of the snow had melted but there was a moderate headwind to contend with. Perhaps these factors cancelled each other out. I have a theory on what made Kylie’s ‘uphill’ return run an hour and a half quicker than her downward journey. My theory is that Kylie thrives on multiple long runs in relatively quick succession. Her 50 Mountain Marathons project is a classic case in point but that’s a story for another day.

    Snow clad mountain and clouds
    Mount Ossa from a snow-free Pinestone Valley
    Mountain and tarn
    Cradle Mountain from a tarn near Marions Lookout showing no sign of the recent snow
    Woman and car
    Kylie back at the car in daylight
  • Pindars Peak-a-boo

    Couple on mountain summit
    Summit selfie

    Early in Kylie’s 50 mountain marathons in 50 weeks project I was privileged to join her for a couple either side of Christmas. Pindars Peak out and back is a neat 42km which fitted the criteria beautifully. What better way to spend Christmas Eve 2023?

    Sunrise in dense forest
    Sunrise ascending Moonlight Ridge
    Dense forest with large tree at sunrise
    Sunrise ascending Moonlight Ridge

    Proximity to the solstice meant head torches were dispensed with at Mystery Creek following our 5am start. Beyond the old limestone quarry we ascended the first rise and were well into the tall rainforest beyond the upper extent of historic logging when the rising sun illuminated a handful of magnificent old eucalypts at the upper limit of their range. At the 90-minute mark we topped the tree line and were treated to clear views over the D’Entrecasteaux Channel to a silhouetted Bruny Island beyond.

    Sunrise on distant island
    Btuny Island and D’Entrecasteaux Channel
    Reflections on small pool
    Bullfrog Tarns

    The next three hours were spent negotiating Bullfrog Tarns, Hills One, Two, Three and Four, scooting by Reservoir Lakes, bypassing Pigsty Ponds, crossing an infantile D’Entrecasteaux River and, finally, ascending Maxwell Ridge. Sidling Knife Mountain featured the most serious patch of scrub for the outward journey after which we were rewarded with Waratahs in full bloom bathed in sunshine around Ooze Lake.

    Purple flowers
    Tasmanian purple star
    Trail runner on rocky outcrop
    Kylie atop Maxwells Ridge
    Red flower in the mountains
    Tasmanian waratah beside Knife Mountain

    During the gradual climb around Lake Mountain we could see our destination teasing us in a game of peek-a-boo. As the cloud came and went we made steady progress on the climb before attaining the cloud-bound summit just before midday. Sadly the sunny breaks didn’t quite line up with our time on top but we could not claim to be short-changed after the magnificent views we had enjoyed all morning.

    Mountain and clouds
    Pindars Peak
    Steep trail running
    Kylie on Pindars summit tower

    After leaving the Pindars summit, cloud flirted with us for much of the return journey while never folly blocking our views to surrounding peaks and the coastline beyond. The downward journey really should be quicker than the up but a combination of challenging terrain and my lack of the distance-fitness that Kylie was rapidly developing meant our down time almost exactly matched the up time. (I’m fairly sure Kylie could have skipped home significantly more swiftly on her own.)

    Distant hill
    Mount Leillateah

    It was great to be back at the car by 7pm. A sub four(teen)-hour marathon!

    Here are the links to some previous blog posts from other Southern Ranges missions.

    Southern Ranges – Third Time Lucky

    A four-day mission doing the classic Southern Ranges loop from Lune River, along the range to Precipitous Bluff, down New River Lagoon and out to Cocle Creek via the South Coast Track.

    Southern Ranges – Take Two

    An attempt at the classic Southern Ranges loop but turning back at Wylly Plateau meaning we tackled the notorious Leaning Tea Tree Sale scrub twice!

    Southern Ranges 2011

    A look back to a very naive early attempt on the Southern Ranges.

  • Red Hot Go on Rufus

    Mountain reflections in river
    Mount Olympus reflections

    Early this year I had the opportunity to work as relief skipper on the Overland Track ferry, Ida Clair. I’d often thought doing laps of Australia’s deepest lake on the nation’s highest ferry service would be a hoot. Sure enough, I’ve now had dozens of conversations with hikers stoked to have completed their hike or excited about a mission into Pine Valley, the Labyrinth and beyond. I’ve also been able to witness Lake St Clair in her many moods which, I now know, can change many times in a single day.

    Lake in the mountains Jetty Sunrise
    Sunrise over Cynthia Bay

    During the cooler months my skipper day stars by setting a fire before breakfast service at Lake St Clair Lodge commenced at 8:00am. I could go for a run after ending my shift at 5:00pm but, as anyone watching Kylie and I on Strava can attest, we are early morning people. Before work is the go! After several runs on the trails around Cynthia Bay I decided to get up extra early and celebrate the day after winter solstice with a red hot go at Mount Rufus.

    Moon and stars before dawn
    Pre Dawn over Lake St Clair

    Anyway, I digress. Perhaps the many moods of Lake St Clair can be the focus of a future post. To blood my new blog I’ve decided to recall a recent run up Mount Rufus.

    Summit cairn
    Mount Rufus summit cairn

    Apart from a long-since-melted May snowfall, winter was not yet seriously making its presence felt. This meant a dry and ice-free accent then, perhaps most importantly, the opportunity to barrel down at a rate of knots so that (a) I wouldn’t be late for work and (b) I may even have a crack at some quick segment times. Sure enough, after inspecting my Strava figures, I was stoked to have achieved the 15th fast time out of 46 Strata athletes. Even more better (sic), I was just ahead of the much esteemed trail runners, Kylie Garratt and Piotr Babis. Having said that I should acknowledge that neither of them knew I was racing them and there’s every chance my place on the leaderboard would be short lived if they came back for a red hot go!